AT Thru-Hike Day 10-12

AT Thru-Hike Day 10

Mile 81, Muskrat Creek Shelter ( 4,567 feet) to Mile 93.5 Carter Gap Shelter (4,518 feet) for a day total of 12.5 miles. We can not and will not do anymore 12 mile days too soon. It takes a huge toll on the body to hike in these mountains!

We left out of camp around 8:30 today with a goal to get to Standing Indian Mountain (5,478 feet) for lunch and hang out and eat. We made it there just in time, 12:00 on the dot!

View from Blood Mountain

The Cherokee name for the mountain translates to, “where the man stood”, according to a reference in Wikipedia. The story goes the man was supposed to stand guard on the mountain to protect the children from being stolen by the winged monster. The tribe prayed to the great spirit for protection, the protection came in the way of thunder and lightning, which scare away the man standing guard. Because he left his post he was turned to stone.

We descended Standing Indian Mountain with the intent to set up camp at Beech Gap but it was a small tight space with lots of low hanging trees and no where to hang a bear bag.

Found a great stream finally today to photograph and to get water. Most of the streams have been really small and slow flowing, but not this one!

We finally made it to Carter Gap Shelter and got camp set up and cooked. Just my luck, I ran out of gas tonight so I had to borrow some, it worked out though. The guy had an extra can so now I get to eat tomorrow night! Haha

AT Thru-Hike Day 11

We hit mile 100 today!! We started at mile 93.5 Carter Gap Shelter (4,518 feet) to a stealth campsite at mile 103 near Glassman Gap ( 4,162 feet). We ascended 1,705 feet and descended 2,200 feet for a grade of 397 feet/mile.

At mile 98.5 we turned off trail to see one of the most amazing views we have probably seen yet.

From here we continued on, passing through Mooney Gap and walking a razors edge of a trail up to Albert Mountain, our big climb for the day.

A few tenths of a mile before the hand over hand climbs up Albert Mountain there is a road passing along side the trail, it’s a gravel forest road, there we saw a familiar sight and a familiar face, we saw Onesimus again doing trail magic, handing out ice cream sandwiches! The climb up to the 100 mile mark was a tough one, so we sat and ate an ice cream sandwich and lunch, not in that order of course, Who eats dessert first, to boost us over!

What is that .2 mile section like from the road to the top, well, 4,830 feet up to 5,213 feet, that’s what it’s like!

The unofficial, photo opp spot for the mileage marker is the Albert Mountain Fire Tower.

100 miles!!!

The fire tower was built in 1951 to protect the Coweeta Basin from fire. The structure is 40 foot tall steel with a 14 x 14 “room” on top. It was the last of its kind built in western North Carolina.

After hanging at the tower for a while with others we headed down hill.

Funny enough, as you see, written on the fire tower is the 100 mile mark, but, it’s actually about 2 tenths of a mile north.

We continued down to the shelter where we had planned on staying, by this time, my feet were hurting and my right calve muscle was telling me I should not just think about stopping but should definitely stop. Then, we get to the shelter, long branch, mile102.1 and 4,431 feet. It was a horrible place to put a tent. The shelter was very nice and pretty new, but tent spaces were not good. So, I told my feet that they needed to push on a few more miles, and they did, one more mile to an area called Glassmine Gap mile 103 (4,162 feet).

AT Thru-Hike Day 12

We slept in late today knowing we had only 6.4 miles to hike to get to the road for our pickup at Winding Stair Gap.

We left from Glassmine Gap mile 103.0 and headed to Winding Stair Gap mile 109.4, we ascended 1,020 feet and ascended 1,532 feet. Pretty easy day all around.

We made our way down to Rock Gap Shelter (3,797 feet) and came around a bend to see the privy. When I say we saw the privy, I mean right inside of it!! Glad no one was sitting on the toilet when we went by or we would have seen right in there!!

The shelter was super cool in that, it had on the wall a big sign made by a 3rd grade class from a school in Cashiers, NC. The sign was titled, “Dangers of the Trail”. It listed about 14 or so things lurking in the forest that could shorten a Thru hike attempt!

“Dangers of the Trail”

Leaving the shelter and heading into Rock Gap (3,735 feet) we saw a group of cars with hikers standing around, this usually means one of two things, “trail magic” or “water”, this one was trail magic!!! Banana’s!!!! Oh, and some candy and donuts, and boy were they covered in sugar and other things that made me feel horrible after eating them!!

Going up and over another hill, passed a road leading to Standing Indian Campground we began climbing, and this would be our final climb for the week before descending down into Winding Stair Gap (3,688 feet).

Here we ran into “Snoopy” again, a trail angel who we had seen a day earlier, he is following along with his wife, “Hiking Hobbit”, who injured herself on Blood Mountain, some 80 miles back!!! Good on her for pushing on after that fall!

We weren’t there for 2 minutes before my dad and stepmom showed up!

AT Thru Hike, Day 7 and more

Suzanna drove me back out to Unicoi Gap to get back on the trail. There were van loads of hikers unloading when we got there. It took us 5.8 miles to catch up to them since we stayed around at the gap taking pictures of Blue Blaze beer cans. Blue Blaze is an AT themed brewery in west Charlotte, it’s actually where Kelly and I met.

We hiked 2.7 miles, up and over Rocky Mountain to Indian Grave Gap. From there we hiked up Tray Mountain and started back down and stopped at Tray Mountain Shelter, for an additional 3.2 miles and 1,300 feet!

There were several amazing views along the way.

Next we hiked up and over Tray Mountain, a 1.8 mile journey up 600 feet and down 1,200 feet! In hiking, uphills wreck havoc on the thighs, butt, and claves. What the uphills don’t get on the legs, the downhills do! Then we went up and down, up and over for the next three miles to Sassafras Gap! Here we set up camp, ate and waited for the sun to go down before calling it a night.

Life on the Appalachian trail is wonderful, it, for the most part, runs north to south and therefore, every evening and every morning has its sunsets and sunrises!

Today as the first time that my feet started hurting. It feels like with ever step I take my feet stretch. Not sure if it’s planter fasciitis or just stress of walking 8-10 miles per day. I have rolled it with my cork ball after diner and will see how the 6.4 miles feels tomorrow.

AT Thru-Hike, Day 8

Slept horrible last night! Not sure if it was because I was in a bed the three nights previous or what!

We left Sassafras Gap headed for Dicks Creek Gap, a 6.3 mile hike for the day, from mile 62.9 to mile 69.2. We ascended 1,577 feet, and descended 2,351 feet, the total grade was 615 feet per mile.

It was not the toughest of days but it was a lot like life, up and down!!

The first climb, basically right after getting out of bed, was up Kelly Knob, (4,144 feet) and it was 800 feet in .9 miles.

Kelly standing on Kelly knob.!

One thing I try hard to do when I’m hiking is to not stop mid climb, now obviously if it’s 2 miles of climb, that’s different! I like to make the climb and the enjoy the reward, the view, well, and some water!

From this beautiful view, we headed down the mountain to check out the Deep Gap Shelter (3,454 feet), where we sat for a few minutes and used the privy. 🙂 Way better than digging a 6 inch cat hole! :-0

Deep Gap Shelter

We continued up and down the trail to Powell Mountain Vista (3,886 feet), what an amazing view!!

Powell Mountain Vista

North we went, for 3 plus miles to Dicks Creek Gap (2,654 feet). Here we waited for George and Sherrie Warren, my stepmoms dad and stepmom to pick us up. We rode into Clayton, Ga. with them to stay at their house, and while there they loaned us Charlie’s (the lab) car, it’s the car he can ride in, hahah and we went into town to Outdoor76 and grab some Mexican food. We went into Walgreens to get some stuff for Kelly and I checked to see if they had any no show COVID-19, and they did, so I got my second vaccine! I’m not a vaccine guy but being out here with all of these people and going into all these towns, I thought it best to go ahead and get it.

AT Thru-Hike Day 9

Dicks Creek Gap (2,654 feet) Mile 69.2 to Mile 81, Muskrat Shelter ( 4,567 feet) we ascended 4,251 feet and descended 2,364 feet!

We had originally planned to only go about 8.5 miles, but when we were almost to that gap, someone told us there was Nora Virus in the water and we wanted nothing to do with that!

We stopped in after hiking 4.5 miles we stopped at Plumorchard Shelter (3,008 feet). It was a super cool shelter with three levels! There was a sign on the wall that showed a shelter being lowered in by helicopter and we assumed that is how it got there.

Scotsman and Kelly packing up to head back out

When we walked up to the shelter, we were greeted by the most loving, giant dog!! His name is Diesel, his mom isn’t sure, but I think he is a wolf dog!

Getting some love from Diesel

From plumorchard we made our way to the North Carolina/ Georgia border (3,885 feet). We were in need of water, I finished off 5.5 liters, and we were climbing up the side of Sharp Top Mountain and saw some folks standing around, we got excited it was water, but it wasn’t water, it was NC!!

One state down, thirteen to go

From here, the plan was to hike to Bly Gap Shelter (3,820 feet), and this is where the supposed case of the Nora Virus came from. We changed our plan and hiked on to Muskrat creek Shelter (4,567 feet), mile 81.0. This added 1,443.6 feet to our ascension!!

We hung at the shelter and set up our kitchen, cooked our dinner, ate, and then headed back to the tent to lay down.

Laying down, it was cloudy, waking up it was bright sunny blue skies.

Short but sweet

It’s currently 10:26 PM on Friday April 2, 2021. I just got off of the table after being adjusted by my stepmom. She is a chiropractor that uses Applied Kinesiology to find the parts of the body that can remove pain or tight muscles in another area of the body. Honesty, it’s a little crazy, but, I’m not complaining! After a lot of work on my left foot, it got to a point where I could feel it in my lower back, were talking about my foot, ok. So, she moved up to my L5, lumbar 5 and put her arthrostim device there and let it “jack hammer” on the L5, once I heard the “jack hammering” release I could feel the pain go away in my foot. The body is so amazing.

So, rewind to 6:00 pm, it was me, my girlfriend , and my youngest son, standing at the check in counter, and I got a tap on my shoulder. It was my dad and stepmom coming to see me off. I thought they were going to come April 3, 2021, launch day but they showed up today! Fast forward to after sunset,

While I was getting that adjustment, my sister and her family walked in! I was not supposed to see them until, Franklin, NC, mile 110. Needless to say, today has been a good day seeing family before taking off tomorrow morning.

Alright friends, after three years of thinking about doing this hike and a few girlfriends that didn’t think it was a smart thing to do,nor would support it, it’s time for me to launch, and with an awesome girlfriend that is one hundred percent supporting me!

Hiking. Why?

When I was growing up in southwest Louisiana hiking was not really something we did as a hobby. My dad owned a large surveying and mapping firm though, and with that came a lot of travel with MAPPS, a national association of mapping firms. Because of those travels I was able to visit forty five of the fifty states, and with that came some great outdoor adventures, some of which included hiking. The hiking I did then was little short hikes to some amazing views and sites that were special to the area. My longest hike was a seven mile hike I did with my sister and her husband as well as my then wife. This hike was on the Phelps Lake loop in Grand Teton National Park, and it had some amazing views.

Fast forward to August 19, 2018, I had been in a two year relationship that came to an end that day, and with that, of course, came sadness and hurt. During that relationship I did a lot of Instagram posts for my girlfriends wellness business, and one of those posts was about how the outdoors can be a place to heal the mind. On August 21, 2018, my birthday, I decided that instead of sitting around the house with all sorts of thoughts running through my head, I decided to get out of the house and do a hike. It was going to be a beautiful North Carolina weekend and I was going to take advantage of the beautiful state in which I live. I asked around for some good hiking ideas and was told of a place in the Mortimer, N.C., Wilsons Creek, that I should try. I arrived at the Wilson Creek Welcome Center and was greeted by a nice woman who was very informative. I told her I wanted to hike a trail that was longer than seven miles, since that was the longest I had hiked to date, and she guided me towards a loop that would be a little over eight miles. The hike started on the six mile, “most difficult”, Harper Creek trail. The trail started out as a fairly simple hike, passing the Harper Creek falls and following along Harper Creek. I say fairly simple and I say following along but this changed quickly as I approached another group of hikers leaning against a rock taking their shoes off as their black lab played in the creek. I thought, “awe, how sweet, they are going to play in the creek with their doggo.” Well, I soon found out my thought was incorrect when they told me they were taking their shoes off to cross the creek. I said, ” wait, this wasn’t in the brochure.” I followed suit, and took my Salomon hiking boots off and carried them across the knee deep flowing water to the other side where I sat down and put them back on to begin hiking again. Hiking along and there the trail came to the creek again and it was again time to take my boots off to cross the creek. This happened four more times at which point I decided that taking my boots off was a waste of time and as I came to the fifth crossing I went on through with my boots on and my phone held high over my head so I could cross the thigh deep water. After this fifth crossing it came to me, God was trying to show me how I need to live my life. I felt Him saying, “if you lived your life like you hiked this trail it would be a little easier for you to deal with, don’t think about every obstacle that you come to and just keep moving, you’re going to be okay.” I later realized that it would also be better off if I lived life in the moment like I do on a hike. Don’t worry about what’s behind you or what may be coming up ahead, look at what’s right around you and enjoy that moment fully.

The trail continued on and I continued to follow the folks I had met at the first crossing, and at one point, following them got me off of the trail I was supposed to take a left following the Harper Creek trail, where I would then turn on the Raider Camp Trail, but I missed the tiny sign! From the Raider Camp Trail there is a great view, and hammock hanging spot over looking the South Harper Creek Falls. I followed this trail for about 1.8 miles without a single creek crossing and I was super excited about that fact! About the time my boots had started to dry out, you guess it, another creek crossing. This time is was not only deep but it was also wide. I have to admit, my first thoughts were, I see no trail on the other side so I must have really messed up. I walked up and down the creek blazing a trail trying to find any sign of the trail on the other side. Looking at my AllTrails app and it showing I was in the right spot, I decided to jump in and cross and see what happened. It was the hardest crossing that I did on the trail. It was a little over my waist and had slick rocks and a good flow to the water. I made stumbled my way across and found a familiar campsite that I had seen when I started and knew I must have been on the right track. I made it back to my Jeep and stopped my trail recording at 10.2 miles. I know, you are probably thinking those numbers I gave earlier do not add up to 10.2 miles and you are right, but that is where following the crowd in a direction you shouldn’t be going will lead you. See, another life lesson there, you follow the wrong crowd and get out of sorts in the wrong direction it may take you some time to get back on your path in life.

Who is Stuart Phelps?

I am a 47 year old Louisiana native who has been living in Charlotte, NC for 23 years. I still can not believe I have lived here half of my life! I have a 15 year old and a 19 year old son, who on occasion will join me on short hikes. I was married for 15 years and currently have been divorce for 6.

I moved here in 1997 after traveling the country doing GPS mapping for 3001, Inc. I had lived in hotels in Missouri and South Florida as well as 6 months in San Juan, Puerto Rico, all while calling Gainesville, Fl. my “home”. I started hiking just a few years ago and did my first long distance hike on the Bartram Trail through parts of Georgia up to Cheoa Bald on the Appalachian Trail.

I have currently done several day hikes on the AT for a total of about 70 miles here and there as well as many other hikes throughout NC. I just completed my first 10 mile hike in the snow up the Profile Trail at Grand Father Mountain.

I enjoy anything outdoors, some of the things are, golfing, hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, bouldering, as well as dabbling in white water kayaking, stand up paddle boarding and flat water kayaking.